#13 - Wednesday 25th

sinking

favourite place: Papa Westray

Again set my alarm for sunrise...cloudy! Made it back to bed in a sleepy haze. No better at getting up this morning, a guy from the hostel helped by laughing and saying "oh you really are late today.." - lets just say I made it to the Golden Mariana before it set sail! Clinic was interesting, coffee morning delicious (maybe not quite so tasty as last week...) 4 pieces of cake later (and not all the flavours sampled) I was left 'stranded' to explore Papay, soon to become my favourite place. Full stop.

Wandering along the winding country tracks, wildflower meadows to my left, the white sand and bright sea to my right. Along the sand with the attention of seals. Blue silhouettes of other Orkney islands on the horizon, extending down to the Mainland. It was all going so well and wonderfully, stepped out onto some black seaweed, sank up to my left ankle - unfortunately I was too slow and my right ankle was in before I knew it too.. let me just mention it was smelly seaweed. wet seaweed. oh well converse off! Got slightly lost, barbed fence keeping me out... Someone else had made this mistake and I cautiously followed their tracks across what was probably someone's land. Again sinking issue, this time ankle deep in mud - soaked right through my converse, you know that 'puddle in your shoe feeling', but still the sun was shining.. Walked up through one of the nicest houses - stunning view and again lost the track (so few people come here, it's not like walking a 'footpath' in the lakes). Clifftop walk surrounded by wildflowers - I was especially careful no to get near the edge.. wasn't sure I'd be found anytime soon! Think I saw the 'bore' where two seas meet... Absolutely stunningly beautiful, so refreshing and peaceful - lush. The West coast of the island didn't have cliffs but had great rocky slats into the sea, good fun climbing over. Sinking #3 - green (stagnant) seaweed - not sure my feet could get worse so oh well! Changed direction walking inland up to the RSPB reserve... ironically got attacked by skuas - can I just say I'm not over-exaggerating or being dramatic for effect - these birds are known for 'dive-bombing' - quite scary to hear a whooosh past your ear and look up to a large bird! They also attacked towards me, thankfully the former RSPB warden staying in the hostel had taught me they attack for your highest point, so raise your hand! I think its unlikely they'd actually touch you, but I certainly did raise my hand (and duck). Not sure if they were arctic or great skuas, I think great... After the RSPB hut I walked along the main road (sun, no clouds) - happening across the most adorable signs:

 

Ended up at a church (I forget the name), very small but you can tell it was restored with love.. back along the coast path (lunchtime!!) sinking #4 probable cow poo.... Visited the famous Knap of Howar (oldest still standing human existence in western Europe i think..) Visit to the local shop, a co-op - lovely little shop, much nicer than here, and selling fresh herbs, salad and garlic - amazing! Saw a sign - help yourself tea/coffee/homebakes for a donation.... obviously then visited the hostel (chocolate chip brownie) & also 'borrowed'/'stole' a carrier bag for my shoes... sad to leave Papay - although I'm sure not forever.

I was terrible at evening clinic - not in the medicine zone... (probably wasn't a great start when I had to borrow the GP's shower to wash my feet and then leave my shoes outside...) last chance to get Westray fish and chips - chips eaten on the way home then back for tea! Chatted to some new guests at the barn... ended my evening outside in the freezing cold with two lovely men, (possibly from the middle-east ?), listening and dancing to Bob Marley - we acknowledged the contrast between here and the Caribbean....

 more Papay photos to come when I next get internet... time for more surgery...